# Disincentivizing play biting?



## cockapoorosie (Jun 16, 2017)

Our cockapoo puppy, Rosie, just turned 5 months this past week. One problem we've been having consistently is her desire to bite us during play (usually on the hands, arms, or torso). It isn't accidental biting (i.e. accidentally grabbing us when lunging for a toy)--she targets our appendages intentionally, with a focused look in her eye. She's not usually breaking the skin, and it doesn't seem malicious, yet we can't seem to get her to understand that people don't like being bitten.

She is our first puppy and our first cockapoo, so we're not sure what is normal and what is excessive. We've tried everything we can think of including swapping for a toy (she targets us instead), yelping like a fellow puppy (she only gets more excited), time outs, shaker can, spray bottle (turns out, she loves water, and started goading us to get sprayed), and hot sauce (she loves Sriracha, apparently).

So far, she mostly exhibits this behavior only with us, and it's worst when she's especially wound up or excited. I've read various places that for cockapoos, this isn't unheard of, especially during the teething phase, but I'm starting to wonder if we need to bring in a trainer to help us better understand how to communicate this to her. She's been such a swift learner with everything else--potty training, commands, etc. 

Any insight? Advice?


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## fairlie (Sep 7, 2013)

You already nailed it when you said you need to get her to a trainer. Cockapoos can be ferocious biters as puppies and it sounds like you have tried all the tried and true fixes. I would cease using anything that revs her up further. While you wait to see the trainer keep careful notes of the time of day she is worse and the situations that set her off. When you identify trouble spots you can work to minimize them by keeping her on a lead at home and rewarding her for what it is you want her to be doing instead of biting. Keep the faith! Almost all of of the worst biters here have turned the corner to become sweet, gentle mouthed, good natured pets with time and a little persuasion.


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## Lexi&Beemer (May 5, 2013)

I learned by watching Lexi and Beemer when they were play fighting. The high pitch squeal is very high pitch. I just said ouch very loudly and high pitched as I could. The other thing I noticed was that when one was done (got bit too hard) after the high pitched squeal that would just stop the play momentarily, the one who got bit would walk away and literally ignore the other until he or she was ready and definitely not before the biter had calmed down and was lying down and waiting. The thing is to be absolutely consistent about ignoring your pup. I would walk away and turn my back to the puppy. On the floor get up and face away from the puppy. And if your pup goes to someone else to play - everyone needs to follow the rules. No touching the puppy until she has calmed down and lying down. Once she's done that go back to doing some training. Sit. Stay. Heel. Down. Not just directly back to playing. 

That was the basic. Lexi actually was quick on getting not biting down. She will even gnaw in me now and never clamp down. Keeps her mouth loose and open. Interestingly she does not seem interested in doing this with anyone else. Beemer was a tougher. What helped was teaching him kisses. So whenever he'd lick my hand I'd say "good kiss" and treat. Eventually I'd ask for kisses and treat once he licked me. Then when I'd see his teeth coming, I'd say kisses before they got close to me and he'd lick instead of bite. 

I did a lot of what you tried and really all of it was confusing because the timing isn't right. Time out takes too long unless you just walk away and leave her there. But if you are picking her up then getting left alone in time out becomes confusing since she is associating being picked up with being left alone not the biting. Also the behavior you want to change is not biting but play. You have to take the play away if you want her to change how she plays with you. 

It does get better with the adult teeth as they don't hurt as much. But teaching inhibition is good altogether. When you give her treats make sure you have open hands instead of holding it with your finger tips so she learns treats are to be taken with their tongues not their teeth. My two were constantly putting things they shouldn't in their mouths so on a regular basis I had fingers swiping their mouth. They prefer I don't stick my finger in there but tolerates it rather than associating it with play. 

I don't know that your pup is at the danger point but if getting a trainer would be helpful that definitely do so. I also think some techniques work better with some than others so what they teach you may not be perfect and you may need to modify a bit. The other is letting her play with other dogs her age. Since Lexi and Beemer are littermates they learned a lot of bite inhibition from each other. Dogs teach other a lot. And as you can tell I learned a lot from watching my two too. 

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## GreenEnvy (May 1, 2017)

Similar to what others said, stop playing with her, just ignore.

Kira bit a when younger to, but now at 6 months she doesn't anymore. We mostly just stopped playing and ignored her, she seemed to get the message.
A few times we also sprayed her with bitter apple spray that we had for putting on shoes and the like. She also didn't like that and would stop.

About all she does now is jump up and bite at my youngest daughter's clothes when that daughter gets her are riled up. We're working on that but it's hard as my daughter, 6, encourages it.


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## blondie1 (Sep 17, 2017)

oh what a nightmare, i hope i dont have that problem with my new puppy


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## LuckyCockapoo (May 29, 2017)

It's not that bad blondie 

Lucky does this a bit at certain times of day. Adult teeth don't hurt like puppy teeth and he seems to be learning to be more gentle. It's mostly when he's bored and rev'd up. Most of the normal tricks haven't worked on him either. 

Best results are to exercise him more around those times. He gets his stimulation from a walk then. Playing ball can work, but quickly turns into wanting to play chase - and the biting is him usually telling me he wants me to chase him. So a walk prevents that. 

Other thing is to keep him on a lead so you can control him not biting you! I'm not a fan of this though. 

Exercise/walks is the key for me


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## Cat 53 (Aug 26, 2012)

A puppy kong smeared with peanut butter is a great distraction. They can give it a good chomp and it gives a bit. Also a lot of sleep. They get bit ey when they are tired or over excited. At their worse then.


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## cockapoorosie (Jun 16, 2017)

Thanks, everyone, for your insights and encouragement. It usually happens most first thing in the morning, and then evening (between 6-8 PM). It's definitely when she's excited. We've used play treats of various kinds (peanut butter Kongs, treats puzzles, frozen cucumber--she loves this!) to distract her, but we also worry about just feeing her a constant stream of treats. She has gotten better at independent play and redirecting, so I am hoping this is an indication of things to come. 

I think Lexi&Beemer is probably right about cordoning her off in time-out. The cause/effect might seem a far reach between carrying her to a room and closing her in. We'll work more on ignoring her in the moment (which is hard sometimes, if she's still nipping clothes, but still an important message). Hopefully she'll pick up on it sooner, rather than later!


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## Lexi&Beemer (May 5, 2013)

cockapoorosie said:


> Thanks, everyone, for your insights and encouragement. It usually happens most first thing in the morning, and then evening (between 6-8 PM). It's definitely when she's excited. We've used play treats of various kinds (peanut butter Kongs, treats puzzles, frozen cucumber--she loves this!) to distract her, but we also worry about just feeing her a constant stream of treats. She has gotten better at independent play and redirecting, so I am hoping this is an indication of things to come.
> 
> I think Lexi&Beemer is probably right about cordoning her off in time-out. The cause/effect might seem a far reach between carrying her to a room and closing her in. We'll work more on ignoring her in the moment (which is hard sometimes, if she's still nipping clothes, but still an important message). Hopefully she'll pick up on it sooner, rather than later!



So until my two quit biting I literally wore the same outfits when I played with them in case they punched holes and didn't want that to happen to my good clothes. 


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## cockapoorosie (Jun 16, 2017)

Lexi&Beemer said:


> So until my two quit biting I literally wore the same outfits when I played with them in case they punched holes and didn't want that to happen to my good clothes.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I hear you! I have one pair of yoga pants that she punctured early on. My wardrobe isn't very diverse these days


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## 2ndhandgal (Aug 29, 2011)

If the behaviour is continuing and the pup is choosing humans instead of toys to bite you need to look at the reactions you are giving the pup and the way that is reinforcing the behaviour. So bite a toy which does not move or a human who squeals, jumps and shouts and there is really no contest. 

You need to think of directing her to toys before she starts to bite and actually play with her with them so they are nice and animated. Any biting of humans needs to be totally ignored. If necessary wear thicker trousers and shoes and just give no reaction and just ignore and walk away. 

A trainer will be able to teach you how to teach her a bit of self control and how to redirect her which would probably be well worth it.


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## Sbmpw (Jul 16, 2019)

Wow! I could be reading about Louie! He does very much the same and is usually after his evening walk and I try to settle in the chair. It can last for an hour or so then he just crashes out! 
He also mouths rather than bite when he wants my attention during the day. As you said, it’s only you. With Louie it’s only me that he does it to. 
Like you I’ve put him for time out,ignore, exchange my arm for toy. Nothing works. Louie is 18 weeks so I’m hoping after he’s finished teething it will all reduce/stop. 
Good luck with your puppy.


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